Design
When I have a design in mind, I usually draw a rough sketch before jumping into my CAD program of choice, Rhino. This is where I can flesh out my idea using precise measurements to make a usable 3D model. Hand carving and mold making used to be the only way to create a wax model, but advancements in technology have really streamlined the way we make castable products. I love that this program gives me the ability to experiment and play without sacrificing too much time.
Lost Wax Casting
After I complete the model, it is 3D printed with castable wax or resin. It is then connected to a rubber base with a wax sprue to prepare for the investing process. Mixing investment power and water together makes a plaster-like liquid that is poured over the wax to make a temporary mold. When the mold is solid, the wax is burned out, leaving an empty cavity ready to be filled by melted gold. Although I have the knowledge and skills to do this myself, I currently lack the space and equipment. For the time being, I'm outsourcing this step of the process.
Filing, Sanding, and Polishing
Raw castings come out of the investment mold matte and rough. It takes a lot of work to get them shiny! First, I'll remove the remnants of any casting sprues with a file. Then, using increasingly finer grits, I'll apply sandpaper to bring the rough texture to a smooth finish. I'll brighten any small, hard to reach areas with a rotary tool or burnisher. A preliminary polish over the entire piece makes it ready for setting.
Stone Setting
Using a microscope, I'll start by cutting seats for the gemstones. The goal is to make the bottom of the stone fit perfectly in the metal so it is safe and secure. The next part can look different depending on the type of setting, but the basis is the same. Push enough metal over the top of the stone to hold it securely, without damaging the stone, and make it look nice!
Finishing
After the gemstones are set, all that's left is any finishing touches like milgrain or hand engraving. Then I give the piece a final polish, a thorough cleaning, and a quality check to ensure it's well made and ready to ship to you.